CULTURE
With dramatically beautiful
rainforests, mountains and beaches, lovely cities and enchanting
people, Colombia should be among the world's most attractive and
intoxicating destinations. Unfortunately, the current guerrilla
war, combined with ongoing activities of cocaine cartels, has
made much of Colombia - dubbed 'Locombia' (the mad country) by
the press - off limits to all but the most foolhardy travelers.
The good news is that it's
still possible to enjoy Colombia's colorful swirl of myth and
mysticism. As long as you avoid all overland travel and stick
to major cities and touristed areas, pay attention to the news,
and keep your wits about you at all times, you'll get a
safe and healthy dose of what is arguably the most underrated
travel destination on the continent.
Warning
Colombia has gone from bad
to worse since February 2002, when President Andres Pastrana cut
off peace negotiations with the Marxist rebel organization FARC
(Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia). Three years of unsuccessful
talks ended after FARC rebels kidnapped Senator Jorge Gechem Turbay
from his hijacked plane. In addition to calling off the talks,
Pastrana sent the Colombian army in to reoccupy territory ceded
to the rebels in 1998. Since then, clashes between the troops
and the guerillas have been constant and bloody. More kidnappings
have followed, including the abductions of presidential candidate
Ingrid Betancourt and Antioquia Governor Guillermo Gaviria, both
taken in separate instances while on their way to peace rallies.
FARC is presently holding five prominent politicians, and is suspected
of the murder of Senator Martha Catalina Daniels. The assassination
of Archbishop Isaias Duarte Cancino may also be the work of FARC,
although other suspects include drug kingpins and corrupt politicians.
As usual, civilians are caught
in the crossfire and bear the brunt of the violence. In May 2002,
a bomb dropped on a church in Choco province killed 117 people,
who had taken refuge in the church from the battle raging outside
between FARC and the right-wing paramilitary group United Self-Defense
Forces of Colombia (AUC). FARC has claimed responsibility, but
claims the bombing was an accident.
The US State Department and
the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs both warn their citizens
not to travel to Colombia at this time. The UK Foreign & Commonwealth
Office warns that 'violence and kidnapping are serious problems,
and all foreign nationals are potential targets.' More than 3000
people are abducted every year - and those are just the official
figures. And far worse things have happen to backpackers who have
braved the interior than this. Violence by narcotraffickers and
paramilitary groups has created a culture of fear that has catalyzed
criminal elements throughout the country. This is a dangerous
time to visit any part of Colombia: although the violence used
to be confined to the countryside, the rebels are increasingly
targeting urban centers to cause economic and political damage.
If you must go, pay close attention to your embassy's travel warnings
and to local news both before and during your stay.
There is a long list of precautions
worth following if you want to risk this trip. Overland travel
between urban areas, no matter what the mode of transportation,
is incredibly dangerous. Don't wear expensive items of clothing
or carry pricey cameras or handbags, because this will increase
your chance of being robbed. Avoid rallies, crowds and other public
gatherings, as bombings are a favored form of reprisal by various
guerrilla groups upset by government actions. Give a wide berth
to Colombian police unless you absolutely need them, as they have
a less than savory reputation. Drugs, especially cocaine and its
derivatives, are prevalent throughout the country and should be
avoided at all costs. Don't accept drinks or cigarettes from strangers
as they may be laced with borrachero, a soporific drug
often used on hapless tourists.
