CULTURE
Azerbaijanis
have their feet in Islamic and European cultures, the latter mostly
Russian and Turkish, struggling with deep divisions between the
old and the new. About 90% of the population is ethnic Azeri,
with a smattering of Dagestanis, Russians, Armenians, Jews and
other groups.
Most Azerbaijanis
speak Azeri, a close cousin of Turkish, though many also speak
Russian. Despite years of Soviet attempts to wipe it out, Islam
remains the most popular religion with Azerbaijanis, followed
distantly by various Orthodox Christian sects. Azerbaijan is one
of the most liberal Muslim-majority states.
The country's
musical traditions are preserved by ashugs, or poet-singers, who
often strum the kobuz (a stringed instrument) while singing of
the deeds of ancient heroes. Another popular form of music in
Azerbaijan is mugam, which is improvised by voice and wind and
stringed instruments and is often compared to jazz.
The country
has a healthy literary heritage, much of which derives from an
oral tradition of poems and ancient epics. Mirza Fatali Akhundzada
was a literary light in the 19th century, helping to develop a
modern literature, especially in drama. During Stalin's reign,
many of the country's writers and artists were victims of the
purge.
Azerbaijani
architecture went through many different stages over the centuries
but the lasting legacies belong to the medieval period, especially
the Maiden Tower and the palace of the Shirvan shahs in Baku.
The capital's ornately decorated subway stations are its most
recent architectural marvels.
Azerbaijan
is famous for its embroidered textiles. Artists use colourful
threads (sometimes made of gold or silver) and beads to create
geometric patterns on a thin wool fabric called tirme. The country's
many bright-plumed birds and other animals have also featured
in designs. Other popular Azerbaijani textiles include carpets,
veils, shawls and towels.
Equal
parts Georgian, Iranian and Central Asian, the national cuisine
is heavy on meat - especially lamb, beef, mutton and poultry -
and richly spiced. Common items are pilaf (rice fried with meat,
fish, vegetables or even fruit) and fish, especially sturgeon.
Not that you can't get your veggies - beets, cabbage, eggplants,
spinach and others are common. Many dishes use saffron, though
you'll often taste coriander, fennel, mint and parsley. Soup is
a staple of Azerbaijani cuisine, often made with meat and sheep
fat. Everything is washed down with black tea in little teardrop
glasses; in the traditional chaykhanas (tea houses), you can linger
over a pot all day if you like.